Cuenca
Cuenca is reminescent of Cusco with the central plaza surrounded by churches and amazing eateries. Ice cream parlours, cafes and restaurants. The old city roads are all cobbled and the buildings all brick with the half round tiled roof. The artesania is strong here and we have put our barganing skills to good use and have had to buy another bag to accommodate our purchases! - so much for travelling light.
The road between Guayaquil and Cuenca ascends throught the mountains and is really pectacular with constantly changing vegetation. Cuenca, over 2,000 metres, is nice and cool which is a relief after the coastal area.

A few observations

• Cars - In Cuenca they are Chevrelots, Galapagos Islands they are Toyota pickups, Guayaquil the taxis are ladas and Manta the cars are Datsuns.
• Cars do not under any circumstances give way to pedestrians even if they are on a pedestrian crossing.
• families ride on scooters. Dad driving, mum behind usually holding a baby under her arm whilst the older child sits between the dad´s knees.
• Any number of people can be transported in a car or pickup where you might see up to 10 people perched on the back.
• Buses are comfortable to travel in and usually have a loud violent video playing. Often air conditioned to the point of being cold.
• The daughter of the family that we had been staying with was recently married. Common wedding gifts are rice makers. She had recieved seven as presents.